If I wake up a 6:30 am I have time for a ski tour before I start work at 11 am. I have skied most of the close, smaller, peaks around Saltoluokta, but larger peaks are visible in all directions, some of them with ideal slopes for skiing. The biggest visible peak is Måskostjåhkå, which measures a little over 1400 m and is completely above tree line. The approach to the base is about 5 km long over gently sloping terrain and the ascent has two steep parts and then follows a ridgeline to the pointy top. My friend Sofia had a day off on Friday, and I rearranged my schedule to start at 3 pm instead of 11 am. Tommy, the head chef, gave us a ride in a sleigh pulled behind his snowmobile. In addition to Sofia and her border collie, Vessla, there were two other coworkers that came along for the snowmobile transport, necessitating two sleighs. Even though the terrain was not very steep the smaller snowmobile had problems pulling the load, so we periodically had to jump off and push up the steeper parts.
Wind is very common in the mountains and it whipped at us as we rode in the sleighs, sitting cross-legged on reindeer skins, our backs to the wind. Fortunately the wind was not so strong, and it was blowing in clear skies, a welcome sight. Forty minutes of riding (and pushing) brought us to the base of Måskostjåhkkå where our two friends donned their skinny touring skis and set off back towards the lodge. Tommy loitered for a moment; snapping pictures of us and watching reindeer make their way up a steep slope. Sofia and I did an avalanche beacon check, strapped on our backpacks, and clicked into our skis. We looked at the topo map and chose a route that would afford us the most protection from avalanches, opting to avoid a ravine and instead traverse a wind-scoured slope. A group of seven reindeer had chosen the same path and were steadily traversing the slope single file. We waited for them to reach the top and then set off following their tracks.
Thousands of acres of un-skied snow awaited us; only reindeer stealing our powder turns. Fortunately the reindeer are very considerate of powder conservation, consistently walking in each other’s footprints. Our first traverse was the steepest of the day, but the reindeer had chosen an elegant line and the snow had a firm base with about 4 inches of soft snow on top, promising blissful turns on the descent. At the top of the first pitch we picked our way through rock gardens on a plateau while heading towards the next pitch, which also proved to have a layer of soft snow. At the top it became icy and windblown and we erred in our route and had to remove our skis and walk over wind exposed rocks for several hundred meters before clicking back into our skis.
The approach to the summit was gradual, but the snow was carved in windblown chunks, that looked not unlike currents in a river. Vessla the border collie loped in front of us, occasionally pausing to roll in the snow. We traveled along the bumpy snow for about half an hour, steadily gaining altitude until the top of the mountain was visible. Here the snow was harder and wind-carved more dramatically and ornately, resembling sea corral in places. The wind was strong enough to occasionally blow my hood off. The weather had been cloudy with occasional bursts of sun, but as we reached the summit, the clouds cleared and we were treated with a magnificent view.
We donned extra layers and ate an early lunch out of the wind under the watchful eye of Vessla. The decent of the upper section was much better than expected. The wind carved snow was soft enough to break through and didn’t throw our skis off course. We skied the bumps, occasionally getting air as we carved our way down. We picked our way through a few rock gardens before reaching the first steep downhill. The snow was soft and the angle was perfect for controlled turns with lots of speed.
Vessla ran hard to follow us as we gleefully made arcs. A long traverse followed, ending at another excellent slope with great snow. We had reached the point where Tommy had left us with the snowmobile but we were able to continue downhill for another half mile or so. We followed a shallow ravine that snaked its way through the foothills and deposited us out in a small flat valley floor.
Skins were reapplied to our skis and we crossed the valley and climbed a small hill on the far side. From here we could see Saltoluokta lodge below and to the east. We removed the skins and tackled crusty snow, our tired legs fighting their way down the last long descent. The slope eventually led into a dwarf birch forest where we found better snow. Without the firm snow below, Vessla labored to keep up. Sometime it looked more like she was swimming than running. Finally the trees and slopes disappeared and we emerged onto the frozen lake that Saltoluokta fjällstation overlooks. We skated on our skis for the final leg of the journey.
I had time to eat a hearty lunch of moose stew with mashed root vegetables, take a shower and a quick nap before starting work. My legs were tired but my mind was carefree and happy, a great way to start work. Should I consider this trip as my commute?